AA + BB = CC? No, This Isn’t A Three Stooges Gag

It started out with BB creams. Then brands started adding AA, CC and soon, DD creams to their line ups. What ARE these alphabet creams, and what do they do?

Let’s start out with BB creams, since they’ve been around the longest and seem to be more prevalent than the others. According to Wikipedia, the BB cream “was originally formulated in the 1960s in Germany by dermatologist Dr. Christine Schrammek to protect her patients’ skin after surgery. Introduced to South Korea and Japan in 1985 – where healthy-looking, porcelain skin is heavily prized – the cream was hailed as ‘the secret of Korean actresses,’ and was heavily endorsed by Korean celebrities”. “BB” stands for Beauty Balm, Blemish Balm, or Blemish Base. They are an all-in-one products that claim they can replace several products current sitting on your makeup vanity. Like foundation, they are tinted to even out the skin, contain moisturizers to hydrate, vitamins, brighteners, primers, serums to fight aging and SPF to protect. The SPF factor can vary, so be sure to check the label carefully. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends SPF 30 for daily use. The primer portion of the formula should also be looked at closely. It can include water, silicone, or mineral based ingredients to absorb oil creating a matte finish, or illuminate the skin with light reflecting pigments. BB creams tend to be very moisturizing. Some target a specific skin concerns such as oily, dry, or aging. But again, the basic premise is to be a ‘one formula can do it all’ type of product.

The “CC” creams can stand for Color Correction, Color Control, or Complexion Correction, and promise to provide better coverage with more skin nourishing ingredients to help with more long term effects than their older BB predecessors. CC creams are created to help with current existing skin problems whereas BB creams essentially prevent skin problems. CC creams still have all the ingredients that BB creams have; they’re just amped up.

CC creams may be for you if you have dark under eye circles that are puffy, acne, age spots, or discoloration. Anti-aging properties claim to repair damage, even skin tone and texture, firm and improve elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, brighten complexion, and moisturize. Many contain antioxidants which can limit the production of free-radicals. The texture ranges from a whipped mousse to a heavier cream.

AA stands for Anti-Aging, typically in a cream or moisturizer. These products claim to reduce wrinkles, crow’s feet, sagging, help with blemishes, as well as discoloration. Common ingredients will include retinol, Vitamin C, sunscreen, and anti-oxidants. Interestingly, they don’t seem to be as popular as the BB and CC creams, at least in the US.

And coming soon are DD creams. “Dynamic Do-All” or “Daily Defense” aren’t going to be just for your face. Rather they are heavy duty body and foot creams. DD creams can already be found in Korea, the UK and Japan. DDs coming to the US seem to have more of an anti-aging focus to diminish fine lines and wrinkles over time. So basically, DD can mean a lot of things, except of course making your bra size bigger.

Personally, I have not tried any of these creams. If I’m going outside, I’ll put on an SPF and my Pressed Mineral Foundation over top. As you know, my philosophy for skin has always been “less is more” and “the less you do to your skin, the better.” A tip from those who do use these creams: try before you buy. The color, texture, and benefits differ greatly from product to product. Be sure to read ingredients carefully.

I’m waiting for the following to come out next: EE (Erase Everything), BTS (Better Than Surgery) and RT (Reverse Time).

SPF – It’s Not What You Think

Since I just returned from a trip to the dermatologist to have a weird skin thingy looked at, I thought it might be a good time to talk about sun protection.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m a sun worshipper. But being naturally blonde and fair-skinned, I have to be careful. Back when I was a kid in the late 70s/early 80s, nobody cared about sunscreen. I remember my mom mixing baby oil with iodine and baking in the sun (and NEVER burning – she got the nice Italian skin; I got my father’s pale Irish skin). So all those times I burned and blistered at the pool are now coming back to haunt me. I fail to believe the hype that the sun is bad for you. Sun is the giver of life on this planet; I don’t think it will CAUSE cancer. But can UVA/UVB rays combined with all the other toxins we are now exposed to form a lethal cocktail forcing our cells to mutate? Possibly. For example, researchers at the Environmental Working Group, a Washington-based nonprofit, released a report confirming nearly half of the 500 most popular sunscreen products actually increase the speed at which malignant cells develop and spread skin cancer because they contain vitamin A and its derivatives, retinol and retinyl palmitate. These substances have been known to be cancer causing and toxic for years by the FDA but they simply have not taken any action in notifying the public of the dangers.

Regardless what you believe, here are some facts about sunscreens (excerpt taken from the May 21 on line issue of SELF Magazine)

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. This factor is a measure of how much ultraviolet (or UV) radiation it takes to burn your skin when it’s unprotected compared to how much it takes to burn it when it’s slathered in sunscreen. The higher the SPF value of your sunscreen, the more protection it offers from sunburn.

Now, here’s the tricky part. Many people think that SPF relates to how much time you can spend in the sun. In other words, if you can stay in the sun for 30 minutes before burning and you wear a sunscreen with an SPF of 10, you should be able to stay in the sun for 30 x 10 = 300 minutes or 5 hours before burning. Right? Not quite. Lower SPF products don’t block out as much of the sun’s rays as higher SPF products. Also, if you are in the sun during peak hours, you will burn more quickly. And finally, lab testing shows that people don’t apply enough sunscreen to get the full SPF effect (you need to apply liberally!). So that SPF 10 product will likely only protect you for an hour (max!) – not the 5 hours that you would think.

SPF doesn’t just relate to the duration of sun exposure; it also relates to the intensity of sun exposure. Here are the two factors to keep in mind when thinking about SPF.

• Time is one factor that contributes to the total exposure level but it’s not the ONLY factor.
• The intensity of the UV radiation also impacts the amount. For example, one hour of sunlight at 9:00 in the morning is equivalent to 15 minutes of sunlight at 1:00 in the afternoon. So if you’re only looking at how long you’re out in the sun you might drastically underestimate how much sun exposure you’re really getting.

Bottom Line: Use a broad spectrum sunscreen (protects you from both UVA and UVB rays) with a minimum SPF 30. Additionally, the FDA recommends that you reapply every two hours (even if it’s a waterproof or sweatproof sunscreen) and limit time in the sun, especially between 10am and 2pm when the sun’s rays are the strongest.

Personally, I feel that when shopping for sunscreens be sure to read the labels and avoid buying sunscreens loaded with toxic chemicals. Look out for oxybenzone and retinyl palmitate. It may be tough to find but a trip to a natural health store can often do the trick. Look for sunscreens that contain zinc and titanium minerals as opposed to toxic chemicals as listed above. Avoid other potentially toxic things in your life (processed foods, chemically-laden body care and cleaning supplies, cigarettes, chemical fertilizers and pesticides, and most plastics).

To be safe, check your skin frequently, looking for any new moles/skin growths, changes in any mole, any spot that continues to itch, crust or scab, or a sore that hasn’t healed for more than three weeks. If you’re not sure, get it checked. Better to be safe than sorry. Here’s to a fun and sunburn-free summer!

It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year!

Summer is finally here!  Our calendars are filled with much-anticipated beach vacations, gardening, outdoor sports, picnics and other fair weather fun.  I am a true sun worshipper, but we all know that too much sun exposure causes dryness, wrinkling, premature aging and even skin cancer.  What is a sun lover to do?

Keep Skin Exfoliated and Hydratred:  Exfoliation removes dead, dulling skin debris to prevent congestion and improve hydration from toners and moisturizers. Exfoliating the facial skin by means of a homemade scrub prepared using half a cup of yogurt, five tablespoons of ground oatmeal, a dash of turmeric and six drops of rose water can prove to be an effective option.   Perform in the mornings prior to toner, moisturizer, SPF and make-up application. Tip: Make-up will last longer on an exfoliated skin.  As an alternative to traditional moisturizers, juice extracted from cucumber or watermelon may be used for moisturizing facial skin.  Toners are a refreshing moisturizer prep, working to even out skin porosity. Our Alcohol Free Facial Toner made with rosewater and witch hazel is gentle and effective  Tip: Refresh with a revitalizing HydroSol spritz at your desk, in the car, at the gym, on the plane!

Keep Your Inside Hydrated:  Higher temperatures and more time outdoors leads to internal dehydration, which can result in headaches and dizzy spells!  Eight 8-ounce glasses of plain, filtered water every day help maintain critical moisture balance of the body and skin, and assist in detoxification. Tip: If you drink caffeinated beverages, you should triple the amount of water you drink!

Stay Dry Too:  As the mercury climbs, we naturally sweat.  Sweating is good.  But no one wants to be stinky.  So apply deodorant in the morning as usual, but keep some on hand if you know you’ll be swimming or participating in active sports.  Avoid chemical antiperspirants that keep your body from sweating (sweating is a good thing).  Our Deodorant Powder is the perfect solution.  We’ve combined the natural deodorizing properties of baking soda with the superior absorbent properties of cornstarch and arrowroot. The result is a clean, soft, delicately-scented natural powder with the odor fighting capabilities of the toughest deodorants on the market.

Apply & Re-Apply: It’s not enough to just apply sunscreen; you must apply enough, and apply frequently.   Studies indicate that most people do not apply nearly as much daylight protection as they should.  Make sure that the sunscreen used is applied at least fifteen to thirty minutes before stepping out in the sun.  There is always confusion over which SPF number to use. The truth is an SPF 30 only offers 4% more protection than an SPF 15. You would have thought it was double the protection, right? As you get up in the higher numbers (SPF 45, 50, 70+) that percentage comes down, but you’re also exposing your skin to more chemicals which might result in a negative reaction on the skin. The key to protecting your skin in the sun is to re-apply your sunscreen generously at least every two hours.   Tip: Stay out of the midday sun from mid-morning to late afternoon whenever you can. HBG recommends natural nonchemical sunscreens with “physical” blockers like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, not chemical sunscreen formulations.  The benefit of a physical sunscreen is that it acts like tiny mirrors deflecting all spectrums of the radiation away from the skin, including the dangerous ultraviolet [UV] rays.  Wear sun-protective clothing and seek shade when you can.  One blistering sunburn doubles your risk of melanoma.  Remember to get a yearly skin exam by a doctor and perform a self-examination once a month to detect early warning signs of carcinomas and malignant melanoma. Look for a new growth or any skin change.

Take Care of That Sunburn:  Hard as you try, sometimes you wind up with a sunburn.  Apply cooling preparations generously over-exposed skin, preferably at the first sight of a pink glow.  A common misconception about soothing a sunburn is that you should keep re-applying lotion (especially aloe vera-based lotion) to keep the skin moist.  But layering lotion on sunburned skin traps heat, keeping the skin red longer.  Skin must breathe to let out heat. Cold plain yogurt applied to the skin works as an anti-inflammatory and heat remover. Apply, let dry for 15 minutes, and rinse. Repeat every hour.  If that’s too messy for you, you can use my favorite remedy – a cold, wet wash cloth.  Unfortunately I have lots of experience with sunburns, and over the years I have found that soaking a wash cloth in COLD water and applying it to the burn does wonders to pull the heat out.  Once the wash cloth gets warm (and it will) soak again in cold water and reapply.  Do this until the burning sensation goes away.  Looking for an internal remedy?  Recent research reveals that consuming green tea and curcumin (an anti-inflammatory compound found in the curry spice turmeric) may help combat skin cancer. Packed with potent antioxidants, green tea may also reduce DNA damage to skin cells when applied topically, according to animal studies.  In addition to choosing green-tea-infused sunblocks and lotions, drinking 3 cups of green tea daily and regularly including turmeric in your cooking may provide protection, says integrative physician David Rakel of the University of Wisconsin’s School of Medicine and Public Health.

Get a Glow without the Wrinkles:  The #1 cause of lines and wrinkles is sun exposure. If you want to look young, avoid the sun. It’s really that simple.  But there are those of us who still think we look better with a summer glow.  Fake it!  There are lots of fake bake products on the market (self-tanners) that can give you the look of a suntan without having to lay out for hours.  Or use a bronzer instead.  A bronzer will darken the complexion subtly and “warms” your skin tone without making it look fake.  Our Health Glow Mineral Bronzer gives you the flexibility to cast a hint of sun or give you that beach babe look.

Don’t Have a Hair Emergency:  Exercising in the scorching heat or swimming laps in the pool can zap the radiance right out of your locks. Boost your shade with these DIY tips:

Blondes –  Counteract brassiness and remove product buildup by mixing together a quarter cup of mild shampoo and one tablespoon of baking soda. Coat dry strands with the paste, leave it on for 10 minutes, and then rinse.

Brunettes –  After shampooing and conditioning hair, combine a quarter cup each of white distilled vinegar and distilled water and two drops of peppermint oil (to offset the vinegar scent). Saturate damp hair with the leave-in mixture before blow-drying to add instant vibrancy.

Redheads –  To reignite your hot hue, boil a quart of water and drop in three chamomile tea bags; steep for five minutes. Remove bags and cool the liquid in the fridge. Then spray the infusion on clean, damp hair and sit in the sun until hair is dry.

So get out there, have fun, but stay protected.  ENJOY YOUR SUMMER!