Our Herbal Aftershave ROCKS

Our very first product that I ever made was our Herbal Aftershave. I use this product every day. No, I don’t have a beard (yet….I am getting older). I use it for removing make up, zapping acne, cleaning cuts and scrapes, and treating skin irritations. Why would I use an aftershave for something other than what it was intended? Because of how it’s made and the ingredients in it.

We use WHOLE herbs in the preparation of this product; not extracts or distillates. The entire plant goes into a vat and steeps for a period of time so all of the beneficial properties of the entire plant are extracted and absorbed into the liquid. The whole plant contains all the healing compounds found in the herb. Sometimes a single herb contains hundreds of these compounds that work together in ways that scientists don’t always understand. The combined effects of the compounds found in a whole herb often provide exactly what the body needs to heal itself. The problem with isolating a single compound is that it may not work as effectively when it’s used by itself. Increasing the concentration of one compound may also lead to side effects that aren’t seen when using a whole herb. Another issue is that chemical solvents are often used to extract the desired compound (when making an ‘herbal extract’). These solvents include acetone, hexane, benzene, and methyl chloride. Besides the fact that residues of these inorganic solvents may be found in the finished herbal extract, these chemicals also harm the environment.

That’s the ‘how it’s made’ part. Now here is what’s in it and what those plants do.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium): A powerful herb used topically to speed wound healing, and improve other skin conditions such as rashes and abrasions, calm inflamed skin. The name Achillea is derived from mythical Greek character, Achilles, who reportedly carried it with his army to treat battle wounds.

Calendula (Calendula officinalis): Calendula has perhaps the longest history of use of any herb in skin care. The flowers help stop bleeding and promote healing. Calendula is also used for chapped and otherwise irritated skin, and is good for sensitive skin.

German Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla): This herb is a natural anti-inflammatory, anti-allergen and is nourishing to itchy skin; improve skin’s texture and elasticity, as well as reduce signs of photo damage. It’s also so gentle that it’s used in many baby products.

Elderflower (Sambucus nigra): Elderflower is the oldest herb cultivated by man. It contains powerful antioxidants and phytochemicals that help prevent free radical damage.

Bay (Laurus nobilis): Bay is able to increase the blood supply to skin, restoring the skin’s healthy appearance.

Rose (Rosa Centifolia): Rose is great for all skin types, but it is especially valuable for dry, sensitive or aging skins. It has a tonic and astringent effect on the capillaries just below the skin surface, which makes it useful in diminishing the redness caused by enlarged capillaries and shaving.

Peppermint (Mentha piperita): Peppermint has cooling properties that reduce skin inflammation, skin burn and rashes In addition to soothing and calming skin, mint may also help out in another way. It contains a nutrient called perillyl alcohol, and studies have shown that it may prevent the formation of skin cancer cells.

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia ): Lavender numbs pain and heals wounds. Lavender is one of the most active essential oils against MRSA. Lavender is also moderately active against Propionibacterium acnes, one of the principal bacteria involved in acne. A Japanese study suggests that the regular use of lavender in skin preparations could suppress the aging effects of sunlight on the skin.

Lemon (Citrus limon): Lemon has Vitamin C which is responsible for building up collagen in our skin. Collagen is necessary to keep the skin firm and young. It’s a powerful antioxidant that can speed cell turnover and can improve skin’s ability to slough off dead cells and heal. Lemons are also highly acidic, making them effective antiseptics that can kill off bacteria on the surface of the skin.

Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana): A native North American shrub this plant was widely used for medicinal purposes by Native Americans, mainly to stop minor bleeding and reduce skin irritation.

Aloe (aloe barbadensis leaf juice): The ancient Egyptians were using aloe as early as 4,000 BC where it was known as the “plant of immortality”. It contains glycoproteins which are known to help in healing by reducing inflammation and stopping pain. Also polysaccahrides which help with skin growth and repair. It’s also believed that these two substances together help stimulate the immune system.

It took me a long time to come up with this formula using herbs growing in my garden, and there was much trial and error. But I still remember that “a-HA” moment nearly 20 years ago when I knew I had gotten it right. I love this stuff. Such a great ‘it does it all’ product.

How To Re-Grow Your Groceries (unless you have cats)

I’m going to eat healthier (how many times have I said THAT)? But this time, I’m going all out (well, my version of all out). I’ve committed to making 80% of my diet raw and vegan. Which means a lot of fruit smoothies and salads. And I want my produce to be organic, but organic can be pricey. So I decided to save a few bucks and re-grow my own.

The idea of re-growing groceries almost sounds too good to be true, so I had to see for myself if it was really possible. I had just cut up a head of romaine lettuce, but I reserved the very bottom (the “heart”). I read on line that all you had to do was place it in a pan of water and with a little time, it will eventually sprout a whole new head of lettuce, ready to harvest, eat, and repeat the process.

So I stuck the heart in a glass of water and placed it on my kitchen windowsill. For about two days, there was nothing. Then on the third day, I noticed some growth. Within a week I had several 2-3” leaves sprouting from my romaine stump. I changed the water every day (the stump gets slimy and a bit icky), excited about my little science project. Then early into the second week, I woke up and went downstairs to feed the screaming cats (they have dry food available all the time but act like they’ve been starved for weeks until I give them their portion of canned food). When I went to the sink to refill their water bowls, I noticed an empty glass on the windowsill. Half way across the kitchen, I saw the wilted sorry remains of my lettuce project. One of the feline brats must have snatched it up in the middle of the night and used it as a cat toy. I tried to resuscitate it, lovingly placing it back into its glass of water. But it never recovered. The lettuce was no more.

I plan on trying the process again, but need to find a place where the four-legged bandits won’t get to it. Incidentally, you can also re-grow green onions, ginger, celery, pineapples, potatoes and sweet potatoes. You can find how to articles and videos on line. Some stuff re-grows quickly (like celery and lettuce). Others, like pineapples, can take2-3 years to produce fruit. And if you live in a warmer climate, you can plant your re-grow projects right in the ground. Makes sense. Instead of throwing onion stumps and lettuce hearts onto the compost pile, why not bury them and watch them grow again? Just be sure to protect them from the deer and the groundhogs and the rabbits……

AA + BB = CC? No, This Isn’t A Three Stooges Gag

It started out with BB creams. Then brands started adding AA, CC and soon, DD creams to their line ups. What ARE these alphabet creams, and what do they do?

Let’s start out with BB creams, since they’ve been around the longest and seem to be more prevalent than the others. According to Wikipedia, the BB cream “was originally formulated in the 1960s in Germany by dermatologist Dr. Christine Schrammek to protect her patients’ skin after surgery. Introduced to South Korea and Japan in 1985 – where healthy-looking, porcelain skin is heavily prized – the cream was hailed as ‘the secret of Korean actresses,’ and was heavily endorsed by Korean celebrities”. “BB” stands for Beauty Balm, Blemish Balm, or Blemish Base. They are an all-in-one products that claim they can replace several products current sitting on your makeup vanity. Like foundation, they are tinted to even out the skin, contain moisturizers to hydrate, vitamins, brighteners, primers, serums to fight aging and SPF to protect. The SPF factor can vary, so be sure to check the label carefully. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends SPF 30 for daily use. The primer portion of the formula should also be looked at closely. It can include water, silicone, or mineral based ingredients to absorb oil creating a matte finish, or illuminate the skin with light reflecting pigments. BB creams tend to be very moisturizing. Some target a specific skin concerns such as oily, dry, or aging. But again, the basic premise is to be a ‘one formula can do it all’ type of product.

The “CC” creams can stand for Color Correction, Color Control, or Complexion Correction, and promise to provide better coverage with more skin nourishing ingredients to help with more long term effects than their older BB predecessors. CC creams are created to help with current existing skin problems whereas BB creams essentially prevent skin problems. CC creams still have all the ingredients that BB creams have; they’re just amped up.

CC creams may be for you if you have dark under eye circles that are puffy, acne, age spots, or discoloration. Anti-aging properties claim to repair damage, even skin tone and texture, firm and improve elasticity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, brighten complexion, and moisturize. Many contain antioxidants which can limit the production of free-radicals. The texture ranges from a whipped mousse to a heavier cream.

AA stands for Anti-Aging, typically in a cream or moisturizer. These products claim to reduce wrinkles, crow’s feet, sagging, help with blemishes, as well as discoloration. Common ingredients will include retinol, Vitamin C, sunscreen, and anti-oxidants. Interestingly, they don’t seem to be as popular as the BB and CC creams, at least in the US.

And coming soon are DD creams. “Dynamic Do-All” or “Daily Defense” aren’t going to be just for your face. Rather they are heavy duty body and foot creams. DD creams can already be found in Korea, the UK and Japan. DDs coming to the US seem to have more of an anti-aging focus to diminish fine lines and wrinkles over time. So basically, DD can mean a lot of things, except of course making your bra size bigger.

Personally, I have not tried any of these creams. If I’m going outside, I’ll put on an SPF and my Pressed Mineral Foundation over top. As you know, my philosophy for skin has always been “less is more” and “the less you do to your skin, the better.” A tip from those who do use these creams: try before you buy. The color, texture, and benefits differ greatly from product to product. Be sure to read ingredients carefully.

I’m waiting for the following to come out next: EE (Erase Everything), BTS (Better Than Surgery) and RT (Reverse Time).

SPF – It’s Not What You Think

Since I just returned from a trip to the dermatologist to have a weird skin thingy looked at, I thought it might be a good time to talk about sun protection.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m a sun worshipper. But being naturally blonde and fair-skinned, I have to be careful. Back when I was a kid in the late 70s/early 80s, nobody cared about sunscreen. I remember my mom mixing baby oil with iodine and baking in the sun (and NEVER burning – she got the nice Italian skin; I got my father’s pale Irish skin). So all those times I burned and blistered at the pool are now coming back to haunt me. I fail to believe the hype that the sun is bad for you. Sun is the giver of life on this planet; I don’t think it will CAUSE cancer. But can UVA/UVB rays combined with all the other toxins we are now exposed to form a lethal cocktail forcing our cells to mutate? Possibly. For example, researchers at the Environmental Working Group, a Washington-based nonprofit, released a report confirming nearly half of the 500 most popular sunscreen products actually increase the speed at which malignant cells develop and spread skin cancer because they contain vitamin A and its derivatives, retinol and retinyl palmitate. These substances have been known to be cancer causing and toxic for years by the FDA but they simply have not taken any action in notifying the public of the dangers.

Regardless what you believe, here are some facts about sunscreens (excerpt taken from the May 21 on line issue of SELF Magazine)

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. This factor is a measure of how much ultraviolet (or UV) radiation it takes to burn your skin when it’s unprotected compared to how much it takes to burn it when it’s slathered in sunscreen. The higher the SPF value of your sunscreen, the more protection it offers from sunburn.

Now, here’s the tricky part. Many people think that SPF relates to how much time you can spend in the sun. In other words, if you can stay in the sun for 30 minutes before burning and you wear a sunscreen with an SPF of 10, you should be able to stay in the sun for 30 x 10 = 300 minutes or 5 hours before burning. Right? Not quite. Lower SPF products don’t block out as much of the sun’s rays as higher SPF products. Also, if you are in the sun during peak hours, you will burn more quickly. And finally, lab testing shows that people don’t apply enough sunscreen to get the full SPF effect (you need to apply liberally!). So that SPF 10 product will likely only protect you for an hour (max!) – not the 5 hours that you would think.

SPF doesn’t just relate to the duration of sun exposure; it also relates to the intensity of sun exposure. Here are the two factors to keep in mind when thinking about SPF.

• Time is one factor that contributes to the total exposure level but it’s not the ONLY factor.
• The intensity of the UV radiation also impacts the amount. For example, one hour of sunlight at 9:00 in the morning is equivalent to 15 minutes of sunlight at 1:00 in the afternoon. So if you’re only looking at how long you’re out in the sun you might drastically underestimate how much sun exposure you’re really getting.

Bottom Line: Use a broad spectrum sunscreen (protects you from both UVA and UVB rays) with a minimum SPF 30. Additionally, the FDA recommends that you reapply every two hours (even if it’s a waterproof or sweatproof sunscreen) and limit time in the sun, especially between 10am and 2pm when the sun’s rays are the strongest.

Personally, I feel that when shopping for sunscreens be sure to read the labels and avoid buying sunscreens loaded with toxic chemicals. Look out for oxybenzone and retinyl palmitate. It may be tough to find but a trip to a natural health store can often do the trick. Look for sunscreens that contain zinc and titanium minerals as opposed to toxic chemicals as listed above. Avoid other potentially toxic things in your life (processed foods, chemically-laden body care and cleaning supplies, cigarettes, chemical fertilizers and pesticides, and most plastics).

To be safe, check your skin frequently, looking for any new moles/skin growths, changes in any mole, any spot that continues to itch, crust or scab, or a sore that hasn’t healed for more than three weeks. If you’re not sure, get it checked. Better to be safe than sorry. Here’s to a fun and sunburn-free summer!

The Look of Marilyn Monroe

Ava Gardner, Grace Kelly, Rita Hayworth…these lovely ladies had classic beauty. The old Hollywood glamour make-up look seems to be making a comeback with celebs. Kat Von D, Anne Hathaway, Katy Perry and Gwen Stephanie make it part of their signature look. But unless you’re an A list celeb, this look is generally used for special events. Few people pull this off as an everyday look. So how do you pull off vintage Hollywood red carpet glam without it looking street corner harlot? Here are a few tips:

1. Those ruby red lips: Anyone can pull off ‘the red lip’, regardless of your skin tone. The Hollywood stars of yesteryear had flawless skin to complement their crimson pout but the key to getting this makeup look on point is to choose a color that matches your skin tone. Apply concealer around the outside of your lips to further define them. Honeybee shades to try: Desire, Risqué, Vintage Merlot, Burlesque.

2. Flawless skin: Unless you were born with a porcelain complexion, you may have to use a combination of foundation, concealer, and pressed powder to get that picture perfect look. Start with moisturizing your face, then use concealer to hide any blemishes or dark circles. Next, apply foundation and powder for a flawless finish. Our Pressed Powder Mineral Foundation has buildable coverage, so if your skin is pretty decent to begin with, you may be able to get that hi-def matte look with just one product.

3. Cat Eyes: Always a classic, this makeup look is becoming more of an everyday phenomenon. Check out our May 15, 2013 blog article for details on creating this look.

4. Well-defined brows: Perfectly groomed and defined eyebrows accentuate the eyes and give them a polished look. It seems that all the starlets had a well-defined, dark brow back in the day. Pluck, trim and shape your brows to a perfect arch. Then use a dark brow powder or liner to fill in and shape your eyebrows. Our JobaColors Eye Liner in Brown Sugar is often used for this purpose.

5. Keep eye shadow neutral: Don’t overwhelm your otherwise flawless makeup look with overpowering eye shadow. Use a cream or vanilla color on your eyelids so they aren’t competing with the rest of your face. A neutral palette will also draw more attention to the natural color of your eyes. Our Cosmopolitan Eye Shadow Palette is a good choice, or consider PowderColors shades Flirtatious and Chai.

6. A healthy glow: After achieving that flawless foundation, use a rosy powder blush on the apples of your cheeks. This will give you a nice glow and balance out your vintage inspired makeup look. Think porcelain doll, but don’t overdo it. You just want a hint of color. Try our Healthy Glow Mineral Blush in Kitten or Cherub.

7. Big lashes: It’s not too difficult to create the look of false eye lashes, without actually having to deal with the glue and sticky strips. First, use an eye lash crimper to curl your lashes. Then apply your first coat of mascara, working product from base to tip. Use a spooly or eye lash comb to separate any clumps. Once the first coat is dry, apply a second coat, focusing mainly on the tips of the lashes. If your lashes are long enough, you can even go for a third coat, remembering to remove any clumps.